本帖最后由 ciciaria 于 2012-1-24 23:03 编辑
从SUGAR CANE网页中下载下来对那些发烧牛仔的标准保养方式：
PROPER CARE IN LAUNDERING YOUR SUGAR CANE DENIM
FOR BEST RESULTS:
STEP (1)
CARE BEFORE WASHING
It is recommended that you soak Sugar Cane Denim in water before wear. The fabric is woven by old type power looms. Due to the low speed in weaving, the surface is rough. The fabric is raw with no pre shrink treatment and shrinks by soaking for a perfect fit. It is important that the leg length is adjusted after soaking in water.
After washing non-washed raw selvage-denim jeans shrinkage will occur both in waist size (approx ½-1 inch) and leg length (approx 3 inches) and the final inside leg length measurement should be around 34 inches. It usually takes at least 3-4 washes to achieve the final measurement but sometimes additional washes may be needed. Never have your non-washed raw selvage-denim jeans shortened to your desired length until final measurement has been achieved via washing. Please note: Due to the erratic characteristics inherently associated with the raw, heavy cotton turned into denim produced on the old shuttle looms, waist measurement can fluctuate by about 1" smaller than the label on the jeans states.
Washing instructions: Wash in cold water only, by hand or washing machine. DO NOT WASH IN HOT WATER. By washing in hot water, the indigo blue dye will lose its natural shade.
Laundry detergent: Avoid use of any detergent when soaking before wear. Use only when soiled as detergents will wash out the indigo blue. Beware of using detergents with fluorescent contents as this will change the natural colours.
STEP (2)
HOW TO LAUNDER
Wash separately from other garments as the denim is not colour fast and colour will bleed
If washed before wear, wash by machine for a maximum of 5 minutes and avoid lengthy soaking and washing to prevent unnatural fading of indigo
It is unnecessary to turn the garment inside out as sugar cane denims were developed as work wear and built tough.
Avoid usage of a scrubbing brush, pumice stone or sand paper for a quick fade as your eagerness will destroy the fabric and the natural fade. After washing, natural creases will form and the fade will give its true appearance.
After washing, wring out by hand and be careful of indigo drips.
STEP (3)
HOW TO DRY
After wringing out, creases will remain. However, do not iron out the creases as this will cause a colour change. Ironing is not recommended as continuous wear will help to fade out the creases.
For outdoor drying, a clear day is best as the fabric will tighten and by continuous wear, the garment becomes fitted to the body and forms natural creases. This is the beginning of creating your own original denims.
The use of a tumble dryer is not recommended as heat can change the colour of the indigo.
STEP 4
DEVELOPING YOUR OWN PAIR
Although it will require time, continuous wear of Sugar Cane will fade to your satisfaction
After washing and wearing, change in colour is expected. Sugar Cane Denims are to be washed to a minimum. However, please bear in mind if the denim gets extremely soiled, it is difficult to wash out the soil so wear your denims with care. Each pair of jeans could have a separate appearance although washed the same, as it all depends on the persons wear.
VINTAGE DENIM REPRODUCTION
We have thoroughly analyzed our forerunners jeans from the 1900 ’ s in chronicle order from yarn, dye, weave and construction to components . We have with us the actual results of fabric woven and colour fade test on the original pants worn. In order to create our own original jeans, it took over 20 years of research. To perfectly reproduce denim fabrics from 50 to 100 years ago in today ’ s advanced period is extremely difficult. To begin with we had to look for old power looms that had worked to weave denim fabric in those days, restore them and adjust them to weave the fabric we have. It was not easy to revive the old machines that disappeared a long time ago due to rationalization. Nowadays, the old power looms are not so unusual but in the early research stage, satisfactory fabrics could not be woven on the old looms found. It was a joint operation with the weaver of trial and failure and advanced step by step.
Yarn is also a very important factor for vintage denim; the cotton is carefully selected, blended, spun and indigo dyed exclusively for each model. Through many processes we finally had success in developing perfect vintage denim of which the surface looks rough and uneven, and indigo warp yarn fades like original old vintage denim. We believe that authentic vintage jeans can only be revived by the same process as original jeans and so had to search for a sewing factory that still has old sewing machines and experienced sewers. Our denim fabrics, after inspection, are delivered to our sewing factory to be cut and sewn. Also the original rivets, buttons and patch are put on by the bands of well-skilled workers. Every pair of Sugar Cane jeans is completed this way.
originally the Indigo that was used for so-called ‘ Vintage Denim ’ was not 100% pure indigo but synthetic. We wanted to use 100% pure indigo which we have developed to dye ‘ Sugar Cane ’ denim by traditional Japanese dyeing techniques by hand and not by machine. The first model ‘ Sugar Cane Awa ’ is made of sugar cane denim dyed by Awa indigo. Awa used to be one of the popular places producing indigo, located in the western part of Japan. The second model ‘ Sugar Cane Okinawa ’ is made of sugar cane fibre and indigo produced in the region of Okinawa, Japan. The third model ‘ Sugar Cane Hawaii ’ is made from sugar cane and indigo imported from Hawaii.
The newest, fourth model is ‘ Sugar Cane Edo ’ . Edo is the name of an era in Japan from 1597 to 1868. The yarn for ‘ Sugar Cane Edo ’ denim is dyed by a method invented more than 200 years ago. This original ‘ Sugar Cane ’ denim series are the products made by a combination of know-how that we have learnt from long experiences of vintage reproduction and our Japanese tradition that we are still proud of.
If you are looking for a pair of truly vintage Japanese selvage jeans then these are the true originals amongst an illustrious list of “pretenders to the crown!” |
发表于 2011-10-12 06:58
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